Nieuport research

brinesharks · 23 April 2009, 04:47 AM

Old Hand - Thanks for the tips! Any suggestions are welcome. I have tried sourcing a custom made router bit - a little pricey for me! However I think it would save me an awful lot of work. I'll be working on the wing ribs first, but while I'm waiting for the materials I'm looking further into the construction and considering the challenges I face.

Butch · 23 April 2009, 05:30 AM

Old Hand has your answer. When I made aileron spars for my SPAD project, I used a shaper. The custom made cutter blades were about $50.00 and the steel block that held the cutters was about the same. You can find a 3/4 inch spindle (Grizzly has them) that will go into a 1/2 inch router collett, but I do not think that is strong enough to swing custom shaper cutters. There are a lot of small shaper cutters for the router adapter that may come close to your profile.
Pete

John McKenzie · 23 April 2009, 06:39 AM

Hi all , not too sure if I explained myself too clearly .here goes...1). make up a faulse ply base plate for the router you have...The front & rear edges to be strait (probably the std., base is round ? ). 2). the cutter you require starts off as a parallel cutter with plunge capacity, greater than 17mm dia. &greater than 20mm long. (HSS would cost 20 S us or so ) On this you grind a taper of approx, 40 deg. incl. angle (as per drg. ) then the ? 2.5mm radius on the now smaller end . 3) .Either side of the cutter (symetrically ) you fit guide blocks at 27 mm apart. These have to have rads at fr & Rr to clear your table, & have a depth of greater than 20 mm so that they securely position the machine above the member in the right place BEFORE the cutter has touched the surface. .4) Either end of the start /finish of the cut,(+ about 1/2 dist.from centre of spindle to faulse base edge ) are specially shaped (appx circular/parabolic. ) ramps which the faulse table edge bears upon,...These controle the progress of cutter into the work ..& at the other end similarly controle its progress out of the work. 5) th ramps can be arranged to bridre the 30 mm high LE member & at the same time aqct as " Hold-downs" for the LE. ./Being fixed to your table/bench, it only remains to reposition the LE for the next cut,Maybe secureing it with an appropriate positioned clamp. .....Sorry I have'nt poed a sketch as I'm not yet mastered that on the computer yet. Hope this comes accross clearly OK. ...Regards Jonn McKenzie.

John McKenzie · 24 April 2009, 06:47 AM

[IMG]http://i683.photobucket.com/albums/vv196/mckenziejohnny/scan0002.jpg[IMG]

tengew · 24 April 2009, 06:50 AM

cant see what you have
there is a way to post larger pics using a photo web site

John McKenzie · 24 April 2009, 09:03 AM

SteveS · 24 April 2009, 11:20 AM

Another idea might be to use one of the shaper blades that is used in a table saw. I used one years ago and it did a neat job of hogging out stock leaving a nice smooth finish. The one I used was by Craftsman (Sears). It had three removable blades that could be swapped for different profiles. I think there was also blank blades available for grinding your own profile although you might be able to grind down one of the existing sets. I just checked EBAY and they seem to be going pretty cheap ($10) compared to new ($100).
Might be worth a look to see if it will fit your needs.

Salute and good luck!
Steve

Doug Bigler · 24 April 2009, 12:23 PM

This website shows (4) N23s under construction: Das Nieuport Projekt
It's pretty impressive and they may have some pointers for making parts.

John McKenzie · 24 April 2009, 01:55 PM

Hi all. Steve S...the method you describe is realy just useing the saw table as a spindle-moulder (Shaper to you guys in USA ). However there are a number of disadvantages with this method .Firstly , it is HIGHLY dangerous to "drop-onto" a revolving saw blade or cutter block in this manner. The critical thing about any dropping on method (necessary with the desigh required ) is to safely control the rate at which the wood is fed onto the cutter. It is always preferable to feed it on against spring preasure (ie. use of a hinged faulse fence ),& keep the wood there via wooden guards. Thus, at the ende of the cut, when the wood comes hard up against the end stop,it is automaticaly pushed out away from the still revolving cutter,by the action of the above spring. With all spindle moulding, it is MOST important to have as little cutter projection,beyond the cutter block, as possible,in order to reduce as much as possible the risk of grabbing/snatching. which would send the work ,possibly nou snapped, in the direction of you, the opperator,at about 200mph! There is not the problem in any of the methods mentioned IF it were not for the necessity to "drop" the work onto the cutter...See the N17 leading edge drg previously posted . Over all, the safest & cheapest method is as I describe ...see text 53 & sketch 56. This method can also be used on the spar halves (befor tounging & joining ) with suitable cutters & positions of the guide fences . May you finish with as many fingers as you started with,Regards John McKenzie.

tengew · 24 April 2009, 02:37 PM

now it makes since

what we all forget is back in the day they really didn't care if some one got caught in kickback and had a chunk of wood flung through some one. speed is what they were after they needed there quote of parts made by the end of the day..
there also was someone waiting to get a job and fill the shoes so to speak

and they had machines that were made to do this job