Airdrome Airplanes Sopwith Pup Project

snj5 · 11 September 2009, 06:02 PM

I wonder if anyone has any rule of thumb or hp/weight guidance on when you can use mechanical brakes or need to go to hydraulics. Looking again at the Tracy OBrien website, there look to be some pretty hefty mechanical brakes that would be adequate and much less expensive and complicated. Is there a weight recommendation on these? I do know the replica taller wheels make a difference.

jumpinjan · 11 September 2009, 06:49 PM

The bigger the diameter of the wheel the more braking force required (and the more thrust from the engine, the more braking too)
Jan

RAF56_Ball · 12 September 2009, 12:42 PM

BTW,
Wing frames are fitted, attaching wires. Will post pics soon.

Bookmaker · 12 September 2009, 02:28 PM

Chip, how would you rate the Pup kit so far?

RAF56_Ball · 12 September 2009, 10:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bookmaker

Chip, how would you rate the Pup kit so far?

I would call it avery good intermediate level kit. It comes complete as advertised (well, mine was a little off, but that is because I came to build it while it was in process of being crated, so a couple of parts were not in it when I came home. Robert has sent every one of those at his expense). The manufacturer's support is first rate.

The only thing I would like to see Robert do is to make a new construction video of the DR-1, not because it isn't complete (it is, and covers every aspect and the commonality of the various kits quite nicely), but because the sound tract is a bit old and not copying as well as it could.

There is also a video of the D-7 construction made by one of the builder's while at Robert's last year, with sections where Robert discusses various aspects of the processes. This is very helpful as well. In fact, while some complain of the "manual" only being drawings, if you study the schematics/plans and watch the videos, you will have very little that you need to contact Robert about. But if you need to, and call daytimes, he will get right on the phone and help you get right back at it.

For those with the extra budget, I hightly recommend the builder's assist. You will work like a dog for 2-4 days, depending on how much you want to get done. If you stay for 4, in all probablility you will have the entire main structure complete, with controls installed. So there you will be with 90% done, and, yes the cliche still gets spoken "90% to go!"

snj5 · 13 September 2009, 03:24 AM

Chip
Looking forward to pics and your continued progress as inspiration!!
I am a few months behind you, although I just ordered the engine to take advantage of the fuel injection offer. Did you opt for the straight Clark Y or Robert's "thinner" version? Blake's N28 has the thinner version with an R2800 and does pretty well with it, about 85 at cruise throttled back. Robert mentioned to me although the prototype Pup has not been test flown, he expects 75 with the big wing, with a strong climb.
Cheering you on,
Russ

RAF56_Ball · 13 September 2009, 12:57 PM

Had not heard about a thinner wing - would have gone with that. You may be referring to the modified clark - 'Y' that Robert uses routinely. If that is the one, yes. His bending jig was easy to make, took minimal sanding after I cut it with a handheld jigsaw (easy lines to follow, NOT great skill on my part, heheh).
I pit up a new set of pages, has a shot of the wings being hung. Not exciting, but okay.

BTW, decided to try the new 'Green' covering process, instead of the standard Stits. I will do my V-6 STOL as STITS, but this will be the the latex based. The big advantage is the ability to cover the metal bits with matching paints more easily. Also, can make a better "PC-10" than what the Stits line has (I know it is not called Stits anymore, but I forgot what it is and am at work taking a break

)
Glenn

snj5 · 18 September 2009, 06:21 PM

Lord knows I hate to bring this up based on the raging controveries in other sections, but what are you (or anyone) deciding to do about paint? I have read multiple threads about the accuracy of the PC-10 khaki green / khaki brown color, but have not seen any formulatons for full size aircraft, nor a preferred brand.
What is the conventional wisdom on this for full size replicas?

jumpinjan · 18 September 2009, 06:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by snj5

...have not seen any formulatons for full size aircraft, nor a preferred brand.

What are you using as a finish coat, dope? I can help get you with a color chip. The thing about PC10 is that at one glance it may look greenish, and then another glance it will look brownish. That's when it's just right.
(Did you bring this up on the Aerodrome builders Yahoo board recently?)
Jan

snj5 · 18 September 2009, 07:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jumpinjan

.
(Did you bring this up on the Aerodrome builders Yahoo board recently?)
Jan

Yes, that's me. Not a lot of crossover with different demographics, non?
Will check with Robert on what finishing product he wants to use. He does very few RFC planes. I may be wrong, but the Pup prototype PC-10 color doesn't look quite right. The ones that look good to me are on Fred Murrin's and Peter Jackson's Camels.
Will be at Dayton next week, will be nosing around there as well.