My FE2b reproduction..

knapper · 9 July 2009, 07:47 AM

Very impressive work! I hope when I get around to starting on my stutter my work is half as good as yours.

Could you just clarify a couple of things:

1) While you were working on this project where you working on it full time, or did you have to fit it in around another career?

2) How long did it take you? In your last post it seems to indicate 13 years?

Thanks,

Richard

Butch · 9 July 2009, 08:40 AM

John,
Would you please go into some detail about how you made the radiator core?
Thanks,
Pete

Michael Scheetz · 9 July 2009, 09:30 AM

Looks a lot like how Achim did his:
on this page and subsequent pages
Is there much difference between the British and German methods?

Observing,

Michael

John McKenzie · 9 July 2009, 12:13 PM

To all ,John ,Roger,Michael,Pete and Richard....Taking the few points in order., Firstly , the basic rectangular core for the radiator was made ,as it would have been in 1917, by a company who specialise just in making vintage type cores only , (in this case by Peter Stephens)....The Brass tubes are formed by a special machine into which long lengths of the appropriate size tube are automaticaly fed; first , when up against a stop , the 5" length is cut by a very fine saw ,(leaving no burr ) ,.The tube then drops down a ramp-way .(while the remaining long length of tube automaticaly is relocated to the stop, ready to repeat the first opperation )..At the bottom of the ramp , it is automaticaly located between strippers ,whence from each end it is entered by mutualy alligned hexagon * shaped drifts .(*or whatever shape is required )..These are withdrawn and the tube goes down a shoot for collection....When the required number is reached , they are chemicaly cleaned and stacked into an adjustable frame-clamp, set to the dimension specified by the customer....This has to be (for economic reasons ) a rectangle and of sufficient size to cover the final shape...**....After fluxing, the assembly (which in this case weighs about 75 Lbs ) is lowered into a bath of ** molton solder of some inch deep in some cases...This allows the solder to travel by capilary action up , just beyond where the hexagon changes to circular section.....This it should be noted , is not without considerable danger ,and appropriate protection against spatter and worse must be worne ......The assembly is withdrawn and turned over ,whereby the process is repeated for the other side.....This is all followed by a thorough rinse to remove all traces of flux...........** ..Due to the limited size of the solder bath available , the last few inches of tubes could not be fitted.....These had to be made up by me , back home at my own workshop ,useing the spare tubes , which I pre-tinned and added on to make up the required hight dimension........The next stage is to shape the basic block to the exact size of the ally' template .Using this as a guide , all the excess whole tubes were removed.....leaving a "saw-tooth" edge...This then had to be made up to fit closer to the required shape by either being "knocked in" or by the addition of half and smaller tubes..A reasonably close fit is necessary for the soldering to be able to bridge the joint to the side plates and tanks ..............The rest of the job ,Tanks ,etc , .........as in the earlier post on construction...

..JM

John McKenzie · 9 July 2009, 12:18 PM

John McKenzie · 10 July 2009, 05:47 AM

John McKenzie · 10 July 2009, 05:51 AM

John McKenzie · 10 July 2009, 05:53 AM

John McKenzie · 10 July 2009, 05:57 AM

John McKenzie · 10 July 2009, 06:50 AM

The tank is made of ductile steel ,spec S511 deep drawing.....The ends are spun to hemisperical shape with a step at the edge to accept a reinforcing ring of 14 swg steel about 1/2" wide which is soldered into it . This in turn is tapped to accept the fixing screws that secure the ends to the main cylinder ...On assembly these pre-tinned parts will be sweated to seal the joint........The main body is a rolled up cylinder , of 24swg steel with the joint being a double overlapping lock seam....This joint is also riveted and is positioned on the side adjacent to the motor...Half way along , a circular flanged baffle is secured by riveting , which stiffens the body , and to allow flow of oil , has a number of holes in it .....Either end of the cylinder are raised swages (formed on a "jenny" ) which locate the tank on the leather lined mounting bands., these being supported on 5/8 tube standing stays with threaded sockets that hold the assembly. The outer (longer ) pair attach to the nacelle frame , but the inner , shorter set attach directly atop two of the motor feet mounts , utilizing the 1/2" dia. mounting bolts ....(Unfortuneately , I omitted to photograph these at the time ) .........The filler neck is a thin wall copper tube , flanged at the bottom , where it fits ,offset to one side , to the shape of the curveof the tank , to which it is riveted and soldered.....At the top is the bronze filler and neck , the latter being sweat soldered into the copper stand pipe....A gauze filter is located in the bronze flange , and to assist in filling , a small dia. copper tube breather pipe is incorporated , thus by-passing the filter .....The oil system is "total-loss" and so there is but a single outlet....The conical sump is flanged against the curved tank shape , with , at its truncated apex , a bronze flanged union to AGS pattern riveted on ....The whole assembly is made up as complete individual components , tinned all over and then riveted up and soldered in the correct sequence .....Screwed into the sump/ delivery union is a special AGS pattern On/Off tap ,which I made in Bronze ,....All special part and AGS drawings had to be sourced from my own archive......After all soldering was completed , the tank is flushed , and checked for leaks..............JM.