Oh, heck yeah, I need photos - especially brakes, tailwheel, cockpit/control setups! Oh, and rudders, specifically if they rib stitched/riveted the cross beams.
There really are two thoughts about engines:
1) VW with either direct drive or PSRU. I like the idea of the PSRU simply because I can take the strain of the prop off of the engine and it's much simpler to put together. Heat shrinking a prop hub onto a crank shaft scares the hell out of me for some reason!
I really don't mind spending money when it's required - one can't complain about the price of a Diehl kit for the back of the engine, for example, since it is what it is and is really needed if one wants an electrical system. But I hate spending money just to spend money.
What is irritating me is that stock VW engines are getting almost impossible to find. Everything is bored out and tricked out, with a price to match. Since I really don't need it that way and and concerned about keeping the TBO as long as I can, stock is a better option IMHO owing to keeping the block as nice and thick as I can.
It's literally been thirty years since I rebuilt a carb or pulled so much as a valve cover gasket I'm chagrined at the prospect of relearning it. If only I knew as much as I did when I was fifteen years old. Sigh. One is tempted to pull one that runs off of a Bug at the Pull-A-Part and just stick it on there. If there are any more bugs in junk yards like that.
2) Yamaha V Twin, ala Rick Bennett's N12. I've got a line on a near zero-hour 1858 80HP engine and transmission for dirt cheap. One of the guys I work with pulled it off of his motorcycle and replaced it with a bigger one. Lots of upsides, including fuel injection, which eliminates the carb heat problem.
Some of the issues are minor, like engine mounts (the Valley Engineering guys and Mr. Bennett both have solved that); some require a lot more thought, like how to mount a PSRU, working out the clutch cable linkage in the cockpit, and ensuring the throttle cable only throws so far to avoid hitting the RPM limiter (and that it doesn't go too high), and of course ensuring the PSRU pulley fits onto the final drive of the transmission.
Plus finding out how much the darned thing weighs with oil in the transmission and engine! It might be a non-starter if to get the CG right I've have to line the tail section with bricks.
That's where the SQOD about prop lengths came from. I obviously can't swing too big a prop, as it's not that tall an aircraft. I suppose I could do a lot of research on how far the center of the cowling to the ground is when in a wheel landing configuration, but I'm leaning more in the direction of just waiting until I have my plane on gear and measure it directly.
Fortunately there is quite some time until I get to the engine crossroads and have to commit.
I'm shooting for four days in Holden, with the goal of having fuselage on gear and controls in. It's more safety than impatience (okay, it's that, too), as I've got to have a solid frame, gear, and controls correctly installed, and the wife wants me to have adult supervision for them. Yes, it's the wings that fall off, I know, but one cannot argue with irrational fears.
I may re-look the rudder pedals in favor of a modified bar setup. I like the foot rest plate versus just a bar (though the plane I fly now has two bars to push with one's feet), but I also like the notion of both the bungee rudder trim solution and the inability to put pull on both sides of the rudder at one time. I heard a story of a guy that actually bent a plane by holding one pedal steady and stomping on the other when he was a bit stressed on his flight condition. And with a little loop of leather, if one leg gets tired of pushing, the other can pull on long flights.
Stupid Question of the Day: Do open cockpit aircraft require a static port for the instruments?