Dilution of paint for airbrush use

[Scimitar]

I'm a beginner in the use of airbrush. It would be interrestive for me to know the percentage of dilution you're using for your paints, and what kind of product you're using for.

For my first trials, I'm diluting acrylic paints with methanol, at a 50-50 rate. Not tried with enamel paints yet.

[DanHayward]

A general rule of thumb that I've always found helpful is to thin your paint to the consistency of milk. As you get more experience with your airbrush you'll find that different brands and types of paint will all need slightly different thinning. The air pressure you plan to spray at also makes a difference. It's one of those things that just takes practice. Start with the thickness of milk idea and go from there and see if it doesn't at least get you in the ballpark. Have fun!

Dan

[larrym]

When diluting paints, mixtures aren't constants, even within a particular brand. Different colors have different pigment densities and so you have to adjust.

When spraying acrylics, I'm not sure why you've decided to use methanol but all acyrlics are not the same and some will turn to goo with methanol. For actual thinning, it's best to use either water or whatever special thinner is sold by the company.

For myself, I never spray acrylics anymore without adding some Future floor finish. Not only does it make the finish harder but the paint sticks better and it sprays MUCH better.

Cheers --- Larry

[stringbags4ever2]

When using flat enamels, I usually like to add four to five drops of Testor's Dullcoat Lacquer to my pain cup after I get the consistency of milk to give the pain extra "bight" onto the plastic I'm painting. Remember, several thin coats are much better than one heavy one.
When using metallizer paints, Testor's metallizers usually require a little thinner, but definitely not nearly as much as regular enamels. If you're using SnJ metallizer, don't thin it!! Use it just like it is. Best thing about SnJ is that you can mask it with Tamiya masking tape without worrying that the paint will come off your model. That's why I like it. Good luck, and happy modeling. :D :D

[Scimitar]

Thanks for your comments, gentlemen. There are really helpfull for the airbrush beginner I am. I will try to work like you say.
Thanks again!

[stringbags4ever2]

No problemo, old bean. Now if you get good enough to do Luftwaffe squiggles with a single-action, let me in on your secret, eh? ;) ;) :D

[Scimitar]

Hi Pete,

Well, during my "Luftwaffe period" some years ago, I used for that a "head-cut" paintbrush...

[GuyCanuck]

This is all pretty good advice and there is not much that I can add to it!

For thinning Testors and Humbrol paints, you can use laquer thinner as it works well with any enamel paints and does a good job of cleaning the airbrush - beware however, it has a very pungent odour!

Pete;

If you are looking for a single-action airbrush that can do sqiggly lnes, try the Binks-Wren airbrush - it is the only single-action airbrush that I know that will do lines to 1/32nd inch.

[stringbags4ever2]

Guy:

I have a Badger 350 with matching compressor and regulator. Will the Binks accept my regulator, and is it expensive?

[StephenLawson]

Greetings fellow forumites:

When using acrylics I add one drop of liquid anti-baterial hand soap to a new bottle when I open it. Then I always keep a cotton swap dipped in 'rubbing alcohol' nearby to keep the tip clean.

The hand soap makes the acrylic 'flow' better in an airbrush. I also use Polly S acrylics and can thin it with straight distilled water. (Avoid using tap water if its not filtered. Thusly I've never had any problem with the paint not sticking to plastic, metal etch or resins.

I usually use hobby -black on all of my photo etch. The plastic or resin usually gets a once over with 1200 grit even when I use enamels. All the best STL

[GuyCanuck]

Pete;

There should be no problem hooking a Binks-Wren airbrush to your compressor, although you will probably have to make a trip to your local hardware store for the proper fitting.

As to the price of the Binks-Wren airbrush, I cant really say - I bought mine 35 years ago and paid $18.00 U.S. at that time! Your local hobby shop should have the current price on it.

[stringbags4ever2]

Thanks, Guy. I'll check it out for sure. :D

To Steve:

There are, it seems, two different camps when it comes to what paints to use for airbrushing..... some prefer acrylics, others (including moi) like to use enamels for their consistancy. All right, all right I admit it..... I'm chicken to use acrylics.

[MarkInce]

You can also use Acrylic retarded to improve the flow (Liquitex makes it) or even Photo-Flo, if you're an amateur film developer and have it lying around.

In general, I've found acrylics easier to use than enamles, especially Tamiya brand. It flows well, doesn't clog the brush, and can be easily cleaned up with a bit of ammonia and water. The downside is that it never cures with respect to ammonia - a drop years later will eat right thru the paint. On the other hand, it doesn't stink and is apparently less toxic than enamels or lacquers.

[NeilE]

Hi All

When it comes to airbrushing, I use both enamels and acrylics. If the colour is right for what I want I use it. For acrylics, I often thin them with the appropriate proprietary thinners for whatever brand it is. I usually mix a little future in to help the coverage also and to toughen the final finish.

With enamels, all brands, I use white spirit to thin.

As others have said, milk consistency is best.

I also never spray future as I find I get the same quality of results with a good quality brush.

I use either a Paasche H airbrush or my venerable old single action Badger (fixed nozzle) for large area single colour jobs.

It is also accepted wisdom that Tamiya acrylics and future don't mix. However, recently I mixed some future with a Tamiya gloss colour to see what would happen and it seemed to mix okay. I was brush painting it rather than spraying it on this occasion. Any one got any ideas on this?

All the Best

Neil
:)